By Honorary Reporter Ayushi Kharayat from India
Photos = Oliwia Stawnicka

Oliwia Stawnicka, aka Oliwia In, has spent over 15 years in Korea as the first foreign haenyeo, a female diver on Jeju Island. 

Her journey from Poland to Korea led her to Jeju. Captivated by their resilience during business trips while working in Seoul, she fully immersed herself in the haenyeo lifestyle after moving to the island in 2021. 

"They're like real mermaids, pushing beyond human limits," she said. 

The following are excerpts from an email interview with the Pole from Nov. 30, 2024, to Jan. 22.

Oliwia Stawnicka is a Polish haenyeo in Jungmun Fishing Village of Seogwipo, Jeju Island.

How did you learn of haenyeo and what about them fascinates you?

Burned out from life in Seoul, I wanted change and moved to Jeju Island in 2021. I had no intention of becoming a haenyeo, but after meeting a haenyeo leader and hearing their stories, I began to see their resilience in a new light. At a festival, I was jokingly called a haenyeo student, which sparked an idea in me. I eventually applied to Beophwan Haenyeo School.

How was your training to be a haenyeo?

The school gives no preferential treatment to foreign students; the focus is on understanding the culture and fully integrating into the community, which is challenging for both natives and non-natives alike. Most students are from the mainland and adapting to Jeju culture and language is a significant hurdle.

Many newcomers also romanticize the idea of a haenyeo, often influenced by media or love for the ocean. The physically demanding work quickly clears up any illusions. Training at the school is far more structured than before, with a focus on safety and theoretical knowledge of free diving. But becoming a true haenyeo goes beyond training. It's about how well you fit in with the fishing village community and build relationships with the mentors.

Describe a typical day in the life of a haenyeo.

The daily routine varies by fishing village association. On diving days, the divers arrive early to prepare their equipment and assess sea conditions for safety. The leader decides if diving is possible. Diving lasts about five hours, though those physically weaker can finish earlier. They sort and process the harvested seafood needed. 

The work varies by season and catch type. While some run businesses or work at restaurants after diving, most are too exhausted and prefer to simply eat and rest. Since diving can last several days, good physical condition is essential.

Korea's first non-foreign haenyeo says she feels part of the diving community on Jeju Island.

How have the haenyeo responded to you?

Whenever I visit the fishing village, the elder haenyeo welcome me warmly knowing my interest in their culture. When restaurant guests visit, they even call me "our maknae" 

(youngest).

What are the biggest challenges of your job?

One is the physical demands and balancing the job with other responsibilities. It's hard to make a living solely from diving, so many younger divers like me take on freelance jobs. Some villages are flexible while others expect full commitment to the haenyeo lifestyle. 

As an expat, how do you promote and preserve haenyeo culture?

I initially aimed to promote this unique aspect of Korean culture through my writing. After experiencing the lifestyle firsthand, I realized the importance of raising awareness of this tradition faces extinction due to an aging community. While no longer an active haenyeo, I focus on spreading knowledge through my book, which is in Polish and English, and a forthcoming picture book about the divers and ocean conservation. Raising interest in haenyeo both in Korea and abroad can inspire a new generation to ensure the tradition's survival.

Any advice for others who want to join the haenyeo?

My advice to youth, especially those from outside Jeju, is to fully understand the reality of becoming a haenyeo before committing. While it can be a dream, it can also disappoint if approached without the right expectations. So first immerse yourself in both Jeju and haenyeo culture and build connections with the island's fishing village association. While the mentors might seem tough at first, they have warm hearts. Approach the path with sincerity and love for the culture and your journey will unfold naturally.

While no longer an active haenyeo, Oliwia Stawnicka has written a book in Polish and English about the divers and their tradition and attends many related events.

msjeon22@korea.kr

*This article is written by a Korea.net Honorary Reporter. Our group of Honorary Reporters are from all around the world, and they share with Korea.net their love and passion for all things Korean.